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The first stop on our trip was a small, kinda touristy beach town on the east coast of Costa Rica, called Cahuita. As soon as we got there, we all immediately went to the beach after being in our ridiculously over-sized tourist bus for the entire day. The water was so warm and even though we were only there for about a half hour, it was enough to make me really happy. I haven’t been in the water since I left the States, and it was so relaxing and refreshing to be able to swim again, even just for a little. That night, after showering, a few of us wandering towards some drumming we heard before dinner. Just down the street from our hotel was a group of maybe 8 boys, ranging from really young to older teenager, playing the drums. There was a guy who was leading them with a whistle, and some younger girls dancing to the music behind them. I loved watching them and listening to them. I already love the drums; they are strong and dominant instruments that are the backbone to a lot of music. It was amazing to hear how talented these guys were, and how they felt the music and the rhythm. Their leader was awesome, he was teaching them about drum dynamics and how each different type of drum works with another, and then dancing while they were playing. It was really satisfying to see what I think it a traditional aspect of Afro-Caribbean culture being taught by an older man to a younger generation, so that it won’t be lost. I think that may be one of the scariest things these days, losing culture to globalization, and it was really incredible to see how engaged these drummers were in their activity, and made me believe just for a second that everything in the world is simple and good and happy.
The next day we did a hike through the Cahuita National Park, on a trail just inside the forest along the beach. It was really pretty, with much different vegetation than Monteverde. We saw white-faced capuchins, a type of monkey. It was insane how close we were able to get to this one guy that didn’t seem particularly scared of us. We were obsessed for a little bit, and took tons of pictures of him for about 20 minutes. We made our way all the way out to the point, swam for a little, and then continued to our destination beach. On that stretch, I was walking with a few of my professors, and we walked past these small orange fruits on the ground. Then all of a sudden a few fell from the sky, and we looked up and discovered more monkeys literally throwing these fruits down from real high up. We determined that the monkeys were eating like a bite and then throwing them, prompting my yoga teacher Cath to assume they were edible. She then picked one up and ate it. Cristina, my Spanish professor, also tried one, and said they were really good. I was hesitant of eating things off the ground and began to walk away, but Cath convinced me to try one. They were delicious! We never figured out what they were, but they are these small orange tangy fruits with big seeds. They were super juicy and sweet and acidic and I probably ate 10 more along the trail. We finally made it to this black sand beach, where we were brought lunch wrapped in banana leaves. Rice and beans are also big on the east coast, but they are flavored with coconut milk, making for a really different taste. It was only of the best meals I’ve had since being here. It was the same dish I eat all the time, but slightly different and delicious, eaten out of banana leaves on a black sand beach in a Costa Rican National Park. Tell me that doesn’t sound amazing.
We stayed our 2nd night in Cahuita, and the next morning got on our silly huge bus and made our drive to Panama. We crossed the border, got our stamps, and I paid to use the bathroom for the first time (50 cents – Panama uses American money… weird). We drove through a bunch of huge banana plantations, which we’ve learned so much about, and got to a boat dock to go to Bocas del Toro, which is a huge tourist town on a set of islands off the northwestern coast of Panama. Super cute, very touristy town. We settled into our hotel, and then went downtown to look around and do some shopping. We all went out to dinner as a group to celebrate Eleanor’s birthday, who turned 22. I ordered a veggie thai curry dish that I was really excited for, only to be served and discover how spicy it was. I literally could not eat it, my eyes were watering and my nose was getting runny, so Cristina was nice enough to split her dinner with me, while she helped eat my dish, which was also difficult for her.
The next morning we went to the Instituto Smithsonian, a branch of the Smithsonian in DC. We got a lecture on wetlands, which was really interesting, and got to tour the facilities a bit. Looked really cool, I would love to work there if I was going into marine ecology. Then we went to lunch, and I got lobster, the first time in a long time. It was delicious. We had rented bikes for the day, so a few of us set out for a beach that we were all going to meet at, but we ended up going in a different direction and biked 13.5km across the island to Bocas del Drago. I am not a biker and have not done much biking, and I was not anticipating any inclines, but sure enough once we got off the shore it wasn’t completely flat road anymore. It was really hard and I didn’t really want to go on, but the three of us had separated a bit (I was behind), so I had to keep going. It was a really pretty ride though, through the forest and the more rural parts of the island. I kept thinking of all the downhills there were and therefore how many uphills would be on the way back, but somehow made it through and we finally reached the other side. There were some really pretty beaches and small restaurants, so we got drinks and hung out for a bit. It was really relaxing and rewarding. I was dreading the ride home, because I was already tired from before, but for some reason it went by much quicker and I felt strong and we reached the end and I was so proud of myself. So much for a beach day, but I’m glad for what the bike ride. That night we stayed at our hotel (which also has a restaurant) for dinner, and the owners are Italians that have been here for 20 years (after 40 years in Italy), and they made the best pizza. I think I ate more pizza that I ever have before: vegetarian, Hawaiian, pesto olive and goat cheese, and a piece of the vegan pizza that was made for our one vegan. So delicious.
Next morning we took a boat to another island, parked in a cove and snorkeled and kayaked for the morning. The coral was a lot different than the coral I saw in Tahiti, if I dove down close to the coral it was super colorful and brilliant, and I saw some fish I hadn’t seen before. I kayaked out a little bit and laid out in the sun, which was awesome because I love the sun and haven’t been able to lay out in it since the summer. For lunch we took the boat to a restaurant on another island, and rode up right to a dock attached to the restaurant and had lunch there. For the afternoon we went around the back of the island, which is mostly a national park, and hung out on this huge expanse of beach for an hour and a half or so. It was beautiful. The sand was really cool, it didn’t look like sand I’ve seen before. Super small granules, of different shapes and colors, not like the grains of sand on the east coast of Maryland. That night we were rationed out money and got to eat out where we wanted. A group of 4 of us found this awesome sushi place and had the best meal. Miso soup with shitake, salad with dried pineapple, avocado, almond, fried tofu, bamboo and ginger dressing, and a shrimp tempura roll with cream cheese, avocado, shitake and almonds. It was so satisfying and we were all excited to have something that we haven’t eaten since we’ve been here.
The next morning we had to leave to get back to Monteverde. It was an awesome vacation, but I think we were all pretty ready to head back to the mountains. Our journey took two days, and so many things happened that we didn’t expect. When we got back to the mainland, we discovered a window of our bus had been accidently broken by the fire department that we had parked it at, and if we wanted to leave that day (for insurance reasons) we had to agree to pay for half of it, so we waited 3 and a half hours at the boat station for the paperwork to get done. When we crossed the border, one of the bumpers of our bus fell off on the bridge between borders. It was put back on, and we made it to Turrialba where we stayed the night. The next morning we got on the road and visited some ruins near San Jose, an old basilica from the 1500s. It was awesome, I love visiting things like that, that have been abandoned for some reason. It makes me think about what it was like when it was in it’s prime, and the people that went there and used the church and who built it and how low it took. After lunch, we were on the road for about 15 minutes when we tried to go through this muddy ditch, which we got stuck in. A broken down car was blocking the other side of the road, so we caused a traffic jam in both directions! Some people nearby had a tractor to try and pull the bus out, but on the first try the chain connecting the two broke. The second try was successful, so we got on the road again. We ran into bad traffic, one stretch of which was due to a landslide that blocked one direction. We were all pretty antsy by then, having been on a bus for two days. We got to the point going into Monteverde where paved turns to unpaved, and discovered that we couldn’t go further because the roads were so bad from all the rain during the week. Our bus driver didn’t want to risk it, especially because there would be no way for him to turn the bus around if we reached an impassable point. So we waited there for an hour for some taxis to take us into Monteverde, deciding that we wouldn’t risk going into San Luis and instead sleep at the Institute. We ate some dinner and then got in our taxis when they got there, and we ended getting stuck in the exact spot that was a worry, so we all had to pile out and push the taxi out. We finally got to the Institute about 45 minutes later, all tired but relieved to finally be somewhere. What a long day. Now we’re finally back in San Luis and ready to get back to school, in the real rainy season. Seven more weeks here!